Caring for your countertop
The questions we hear most after an install are about care — what cleaner is safe, whether a hot pan will hurt the stone, when to reseal. Here's the honest version, material by material. It's less work than most people fear.
Quartz
Engineered quartz is non-porous — it never needs sealing, and coffee, wine and oil wipe straight off. Its one weak point is heat: the resin that binds the stone scorches around 300 °F, and a pan straight off the burner leaves a permanent whitish ring. A trivet solves it entirely.
Do
Clean with dish soap and warm water on a soft sponge or cloth. Lift dried-on gunk with a plastic scraper. Use trivets and hot pads without exception.
Don't
No hot pans on the surface. No bleach, oven cleaner, abrasive powders or scouring pads — they dull the finish. And no quartz outdoors: UV yellows the resin, which is why our outdoor kitchens are granite.
Granite
Granite is the low-drama workhorse: hard, heat-tolerant and happy for decades if the sealer is kept up. We seal every top at install; plan on resealing every one to three years depending on the stone and how hard the kitchen works. The test is simple — drop a little water on the counter, and if it darkens within a few minutes instead of beading, it's time.
Do
Dish soap and water, or a pH-neutral stone cleaner. Reseal when the water test says so — or have us do it. For a set-in stain, a baking-soda poultice under plastic wrap overnight usually draws it out.
Don't
Skip vinegar, lemon, bleach and ammonia cleaners — they won't dissolve the granite, but they eat the sealer that protects it. Trivets are still smart: sudden extreme heat can shock any natural stone.
Quartzite
Quartzite gives you marble looks with near-granite hardness — but it's still a porous natural stone, and some varieties drink more than others. Denser slabs go a couple of years between sealings; softer ones want it yearly. One honest warning: some stones sold as "quartzite" are really marble or dolomite and will etch like marble. We'll tell you which is which while you're standing in front of the slab.
Do
Treat it like granite: mild soap or pH-neutral cleaner, trivets, and the water-drop test a couple of times a year to know when sealer is due.
Don't
Don't assume every white "quartzite" shrugs off lemon juice — verify the stone first. And don't let oil sit near the cooktop; oil stains are the slowest ones to draw back out.
Marble
Marble is calcite, and acids react with calcite — lemon, wine, vinegar and tomato leave dull "etch" marks that no sealer can prevent. Sealer stops stains from soaking in; etching is a chemistry problem, not a sealing problem. That's why we'll honestly steer marble toward vanities, fireplaces and baking stations, and suggest quartz for a hardworking family kitchen.
Do
Wipe spills right away, use a cutting board always, clean with pH-neutral stone cleaner only, and reseal about once a year. A honed finish hides everyday wear better than a polished one.
Don't
No acidic or abrasive cleaners, ever — that includes vinegar "natural" sprays. Don't panic over an etch mark either: a pro can re-hone or re-polish the spot. We do that.
We reseal and repair, too
Resealing, re-polishing, chip and seam repair — including stone we didn't install. If your counter fails the water test or a corner took a hit, call us before it becomes a bigger job.